New Pattern - Silvia Dress

The sun is finally out in London, it's time to start sewing some summer dresses!

Mixed materials jacket

I'm working on yet another jacket. This one will be available as a pattern soon, I promise!

Meet Sandra!

I hope'll you like her as much as I do. I'm such a fan of day-to-evening kind of clothing. If I had an office job I would make this in several colours.

Buy the Sandra dress pattern here.

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How to insert a fly front zipper

There are plenty of tutorials to be found on how to insert a fly front zipper. Some of them are quite cryptic, and all of them seem to give you a slightly different technique.

At the risk of confusing you even further, I'm giving you my version. The tutorial is from one of my shorts patterns, but can be used with any shorts or trouser pattern with zipper at the front. The pattern should include a piece for the fly shield, if not you can cut your own one. Length is slightly longer than the zipper, 2 3/8 " = 6 cm is a good width. Fold in half lengthwise and finish the raw edges.

P.S. If it still doesn't make sense to you this video will make it clear as crystal.

Using widest possible stitch, machine baste front seam all the way up to the waist. Finish the edges of fly facings. Clip open the seam allowance where indicated by the arrow and press the seam open.

Edgestitch along right side of the fly. Place the zipper right side down, lining up the right edge of the zipper with the centre front seam.

Move all layers underneath to the right side, and on the LEFT side stitch close to the zipper with a zipper foot, attaching the zipper to fly facing only. Then pull the zipper over to the other fly facing as far as it goes - do NOT line up with the edge though. Pin in place. Move all layers to the left side and stitch, again attaching the zipper to facing only.

Using a seam-ripper open the wide-stitched centre front seam. Open zipper and press from right side. On the right side use chalk or baste to mark a guide line and then top stitch along that line, catching the fly facing underneath. Place fly shield on top of zipper on the wrong side, zig zagged edge lined up with the zig zagged edge of fly facing. Stitch in place, along the left side and bottom, attaching it to fly facing only.

Et voilà! Now all you have to do is attach the waistband.

Coming soon

Yet another pattern with color blocking. I can't seem to get enough of it!

Hidden buttons

Cuff detail

How to hem a curved edge - Rolled hem by machine

I recently added this pattern to my shop and thought I'd give you a tutorial on how to hem it. The pattern is based on a half-circle skirt pattern. This kind of a skirt is quite easy to make because there are no darts or gatherings to worry about and only two pattern pieces. The shape of the pattern makes a few things a bit more complicated though:

-The side seams are cut on the bias and need some extra attention when sewing. ( Tutorial coming soon)

-Turning the hem is tricky simply because the hem gets wider and needs to be eased in.

You can ease in the hem with the help of a long stitch along the fold, but a rolled hem by machine is what you'll want to go with to get the least amount of headache.

If you've ever tried to turn the hem of a circle skirt like you would a straight edge, you know it can make you want to give up sewing forever, but trust me, it's actually quite simple when you know what you're doing!

First fold in 1 cm ( 3/8" ) and stitch very close to the fold line.

I just measure and fold while sewing, making sure not to fold too close to the presser foot, that might stretch the edge. You will end up with a slightly curvy edge, cut it out quite close to the stitch line.

Fold again and stitch right next to the previous stitch line. I always fold as little as I can.

This is what you'll end up with: Two stitch lines on the wrong side and one on the right side. Neat, huh?

Press with lots of steam to get rid of any waviness

What I'm working on

I know mid-January isn't exactly the time to start working on a new winter coat. Even the weather is trying to tell me I'm too late, it's snowing in London today. Well... It's not snow as I know snow, I would call this somewhere between sleet and rain. Oh wait, it's now turned into 100% rain.

Without knowing the exact rules of what distinguishes a pea coat from a regular coat, I would say mine definitely looks like what you would call a pea coat. It's double-breasted and has a large notched collar. The fit is slightly "boyfriend". I am very excited about the double-topstitching along the seams, and think I will use a lot of this technique in the future.

(Oh the things that get me excited, lately it's been my parsley seeds starting to grow, and topstitching. I think I should leave the house more often.)

I will keep you updated with the progress, although I have a feeling this will be one of those projects that lingers on for a while.

It's sure keeping Doris warm! Not convinced that the yellow summer dress underneath matches very well.

My favourite detail: The pockets are hidden in the lowered waist seem

Center back seam meets waist seam

I topstitched from the wrong side... so naughty!

New pattern: Paper bag waist shorts. Click here for more details or to purchase.

Working from home definitely has its downsides but when the weather's like this and you have a garden, I'm not complaining!

Dear readers,

I wish I could explain my absence some other way but I guess I just have to tell you the truth: I've been holidaying for about a month! I traveled to some amazing places and am now full of ideas and energy.

That means I have lots of new patterns up my sleeve and will be doing some final touches and releasing them very soon. So please check my shop often! Below is the first one of them, the Sundress. I realise that the elastic waist is becoming a norm in my patterns but while I think they require a belt to look more refined, I just think it's not only easy to make but comfortable to wear and flattering to most body types.